Mezcal wine: The other history of tequila and its Appellation of Origin

Abstract

This study analyzes the relationship between local knowledge and the Tequila Appellation of Origin in Mexico. The objective is to highlight how regulatory and commercial processes, driven by governmental and industrial interests, have excluded historical communities linked to the production of vino mezcal, the predecessor of tequila. The hypothesis argues that the Appellation of Origin, rather than protecting local traditions, has generated productive delocalization that strips these communities of their historical and cultural recognition. The methodology is historical-analytical, based on the review of primary sources about the colonial estanco system of vino mezcal and Gilberto Giménez’s theoretical analysis of the symbolic production of territory. Among the main results is the loss of diversity in production processes and raw materials, as well as the marginalization of traditional producing regions such. The study proposes reconstructing the history of tequila from its community roots as an act of historical justice and the recognition of intangible cultural heritage.