Transformations in mezcal production in Puebla: Tradition and commercialization

Abstract

Mezcal production in Puebla has undergone a significant transformation due to its increasing commodification, which has impacted the value chain, the sustainability of the maguey, and the social dynamics of the producing communities. This article analyzes the changes in two regions of the state of Puebla in Mexico, where artisanal distillation based on wild maguey has been a historical practice. Using an anthropological and resource management approach, it examines how market expansion has displaced the empirical knowledge of master mezcaleros in favor of industrial standards and certifications that hinder the participation of small producers. The findings show that pressure on natural resources, the introduction of monocultures, and the spread of pests threaten the sustainability of agave. In addition, the reconfiguration of the sector has generated inequalities, favoring large traders and modifying the social structure of producing communities.